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本帖最後由 EG30 於 6-7-2017 03:13 編輯
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    brand new , get the car mid of Jul,
    i will polish with Wolfgang Total Swirl Re ...
lemon999 發表於 5-7-2017 22:21



    The WG total swirl remover cuts well, in fact too well for your thin ( 60-70 microns ) paint from factory.  Unless there are some scuffing and light scratches you want to rid off, I won't use this over the whole car just for the sake of preparation.  It's more like a medium cut polish that finishes down extremely well so may be that's why they put it in the swirl remover category and put the word " total " in it.  A light swirl remover would be what you want for the sake of preparing the surface for the perfect bonding you are planning for; more on later in the post.

A bit of background about your car's paint and modern single stage paint in general:

Typically modern automotive paint used these days are water based for base coats to comply to environmental requirements worldwide and the clearcoat on top is still solvent based; ie the harder non porous clearcoat still protects the relatively softer substrate very well.  However when it comes to solid colours ( what the trade call direct gloss paint system ) no clearcoat is applied on top of it ( hence the name single stage paint ).  Solid colours of whites, yellow, red and black that were common places for passenger cars are now mostly replaced by their metallic and/or pearl version of the same colours especially in the case of Japanese cars ( all have same soft paints ).  

In the case of Commercial vehicles such as light buses, big and small trucks ( which the Ranger is one of many light trucks out there ) etc in order to save costs single stage water based paint system is still being used despite the many drawbacks of such system.  It's unfortunate but their top priority isn't to win any awards at car shows or durability against UV fading or physical abrasion.  Some large trucks come with as little as 48-50 microns of paint from the factory, as you can imagine every micron shaved represent a big amount of paint on a big truck.

So it's a highly compromised setup with little consideration for the hardness of the paint or gloss for that matter, and the end result is a water based paint that is low in gloss and hardness as well as resistance to UV compared to its solvent based counterparts that is avail at the refinisher level ie spray painting shops.  It's almost as if the paint has never cured properly ie like a solvent based paint that is applied with insufficent amount of hardener within.  

Usually this isn't a problem cos they are merely commercial vehicles, but a few vehicles that are often used as a private vehicle with the owners having to pay the equivalent price of a new base 3 series might get a bit pissed off indeed ie your Ranger ( and its Mazda BT50 twin ), Hilux utes, Nissan Navaras, VW Amoroks etc.  Other unfortunate cars that fall within this category include Thai built Nissans in solid white colour, and Suzuki Swift Sport in solid yellow.  Over here in Aust where UV is very strong to extreme you can find Thai built Nissan pulsars as new cars or demo cars that has been sitting on the car yard in the open for 3-6 months and there is already visibible oxidation. The jap single stage water based paint however fares better in terms of gloss and UV fade resistant due to a higher quality of paint to start off with which includes superior uv inhibitors and binding agents within not to mention more expensive pigments used compare to the Thai paints ( built to a price ). Euro cars with solid colours fare much better still in general with high solids with strong binding agents + uv inhibtors, providing great gloss and decent hardness.

I deal with many Utes here in Australia and buffing oxidised white paint on a Ranger as new as only 2-3 years old has got to be one of the most frustrating tasks in terms of paint correction.  Not only is the paint soft and the result is streaky with buffing trails that cannot be completely removed without filling ( ie paint feel more porous than others and almost chalky ); the freshly buffed area simple fades from gloss to low gloss soon after ie before you get to finish buffing the car.  Toyota Hiluxes, MMC Tritons, Nissan Navaras are all better and don't have the same problem; ie once buffed the paint stays glossy for few weeks at least if there was sealant applied.  

Hence I now only use AIO as the final polishing step, using product such as Optimum GPS, HD Speed which stops the paint from fading soon after.  If car was to be coated rather than durable sealant applied afterwards I would use a SiO2 based AIO with a low cut, minor fill along with sealant that is compatible with a coating such as Carpro Essence or Gyeon Primer.  Once it's left to cure for 24 hrs there is actually no need to use IPA for wipedowns prior to coating, though it's best to do a wipedown before buffing with Essence so it bonds perfectly to the paint below and once it has cured it will provide the perfect foundation for your OPT Gloss coat to adhere to.

Prevention is better than cure when it comes to paint oxidisation and it's a great idea to coat a fragile paint such as one on your new Ranger to avoid huge amount of corrective work required and not to mention irrevesable UV damage.

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Just received my latest order of OPT products from its Aust distributor ZAS au.
EG30 發表於 3-7-2017 06:23



Hi EG30,
Just seen from the picture that you've also ordered Optimum Hyper Polish Spray.  Any comments about the pros and cons of this?  Thanks!

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本帖最後由 EG30 於 7-7-2017 04:29 編輯
Hi EG30,
Just seen from the picture that you've also ordered Optimum Hyper Polish Spray.  Any com ...
KFC 發表於 6-7-2017 11:49



    Hi KFC,

I use the Hyper polish, along with the OPT's other spray compounds and polishes mostly when I use a rotary when I have to buff a large vehicle to save time.  My go to fine polish is M205 normally.

Pros:  Consistent delivery every time ie 1 squirt = 1ml of product.  Fast delivery no need to grab polish dispenser, tip it upside down and place a few dabs of product onto the pad.  Great for spraying product onto a 7-8" wool pad evenly, and I often spray product onto pad before it has stopped spinning completely.  Can also spray directly onto the bodywork if required, it's ideal when I do a light truck with another helper with a second buffer and we only have one bottle of product.

Cons: Not quite up to the benchmark set by M205 in just about every area but not far off it.  A tad of overspray is to be expected when spraying esp on 3" pads but this is no big deal at all.

The ability to hook the trigger on my pants pocket is unreal esp when I need to buff a roof of a large SUV/small truck.  I can keep working away without coming off the step ladder and just buff away without much disruption.

The hyper polish works great on a fine cutting spider foam pad for a one step process on a rotary, which I do a lot on large vehicles on a budget ie mostly pre sale detailing jobs.  The results still 80-90% as good as 2 step DA job and 500% better than before and customers are always very happy and so am I with the hourly rate I end up getting compared to having to charge more for a 2 step DA job ( and end up getting less per hour ).


Compounds of varying levels of cut and GPS being the AIO.

When used as a system there is no need to wipe of left over residue from the previous compounding step and being water based the wipe off is usally easy.  Can also be wiped off with ONR dampened towel.  So potentially there is a huge amount of time to be saved here for multiple steps buffing.

So to sum up, OPT is the only company offering sprayable polishing liquids out there and it is a patented technology.  So unless you do many cars that are big and you need to turn them around in the least amount of time I would say just stick with your current go to fine polishing compound KFC.

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回復 23# EG30


    Thanks EG30! Learned a lot! Yeah I will stick with my M205!

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本帖最後由 EG30 於 3-8-2017 17:06 編輯

Car I did a major correction on the weekend and coated with OPT Gloss coat ( latest revision ), Opti seal on top to protect the GC while it cures.  Will be applying Kamikaze Overcoat in a few weeks for a deeper shine and crazy and tight water beading.











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EG30, thanks for demonstration and sharing!

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回復 25# EG30


    EG30, I did Opti coat finally which is very nice, and esay to handle. Thanks for your sharing

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回復  EG30


    EG30, I did Opti coat finally which is very nice, and esay to handle. Thanks for y ...
lemon999 發表於 8-8-2017 17:13



    Hello C Hing, any photos sharing after Opti coat applicatio ?? Tks very much !!

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